draganflyer5


  • Mike Dammar hasone more timedone it! the greatest innovation for new comers and pilot enthousiast:
    The Draganflyer V Ti R/C Helicopter is a 3 heading lock gyro stabilized helicopter now with 7 electronic sensors to detect the horizon and assist the pilot if he get stressed to much. Anoptional Eyecam Wireless Video System, is also  available in a package at$999.95 (780â?¬).Trust me it is one of the best aircraft design of the last 20 years. More details here

  • Tired of only being able to fly 3-4 min with your Draganflyer baby? the new generation of battery: Litium Polymer or LiPo has just been created for that purpose: extending flying time because of an unseeen yet capacity to weight ratio. You can now expect on an average 15 minutes of cordless and pure flying fun.

    LiPo for the Draganflyer


    What you need

    KoKam 3s 1500mAh
    • High Discharge Cell
      Pack,
    • 3 cells in serie
    • Discharge 10A (15A), Continuous 7C (10C)
    • Charge 1,5A (1C)
    • Weight: 110 g
    • Energy 348Wh/l or 171Wh/kg
    • Dimension (LBH): 75 x 38 x 19 mm

    Maybe the best brand on the market for Li-Ion and LiPo.

    It's competitor: ThunderPower is gaining marketshare in the USA.

    I plan to use them as well on my Hornet 2

    Plug for controlling cell on the left, on the right 4mm gold plugs with 2.5mm wire to transmit power...

    Charging

    LiPo are expensive, LiPo are Dangerous so you must handle them carefuly and charge them safely...
    If you charge them too much (outpassing current charge with 100mV) and they can explode. If You store them in a place and forget them, under some condition (less than 2.8V per cell), they will destruct themselves.

    A good charger is the
    KOKAM LIPO-402, able to take care of Your 1S,2S,3S an 4S pack.

    It is mandatory to stop using them if cells go under 3V, (remember at less than 2.8V/Cell they will loose capacity and be damaged), so stopping at 3V is not a bad idea. A lot of device are sold in order to help you watch in realtime the state of your cells. Most of them are made of a single CI (a comparator with a fixe reference at 9V (33S)).

    You can also build Your own device (see below and for a lot less). This system has a big high luminosity 10mm LED (but some use buzzer) which blink when it is time to stop. In this case I recommend to land very fast and switch power off.
    • For 2S to 10S pack.
    • Voltage trigger from 2,5V to 3,4V

    Sand!

    As stated in the documentation, You should NEVER use any water to stop a Litium battery fire, the water is reacting with the Litium and make the things even worse. I recommend to ALWAYS have 1-2Kg of sand in the area. Watching a helicopter burning is not the best way to make the bank officer Your friend...
    For the same reason DON'T charge battery inside Your house!

    Build it yourself!

    1. Voltage monitor for LiPo
      A PDF that I've found on RC Universe is available here. Cost of buid less than 3euro!!!
    2. Independant Cell charger. So you can charge cells separatly. In the picture below, white plug is the common. Be careful to switch your charger to 1S charge mode (3.2V) when charging cell indep. or you will destruct your superb pack

    In the draganflyer...

    TODO

    Video in-action

    ............

    VIDEO

    Before the end of months I will be
    able to post a video here

    Total Costs

    • 1500mAh LiPo Pack 3s 49.90€
    • Kokam LiPo 402 89€
    • LiPo Protect analog 19€

    Links

    www.rclipo.deA german site with a lot of battery and choice. The seller has given me good advices...

    Future is exciting! hydrogen cell are expected in 2007...


  • European mode (throttle on right stick)

    Channel 1 Channel 2 Channel 3 Channel 4
    Aileron Elevator Throttle Rudder
    Green Blue Multicolor Yellow
    REV REV REV NORMAL
  • Description

    • Les hélices sont à pas fixes comme sur un avion, plus elles tournent vite et plus la portance crée est importante.
    • le Draganflyer possède 4 moteurs indépendants -> il y a 4 contrôleurs de vitesse qui fonctionnent sur le principe de variation de la valeur de tension continue (PWM: pulse wide modulation). L'interface de puissance est réalisé au moyen des 4 transistors indépendants.
    • le Draganflyer possède 3 asservisements: lacets, roulis et tangage -> il y a 3 gyroscopes piézo-électrique de marque TOKIN (ce sont les 3 polygones argentés sur la photo)
    • Le tout est controlé par un processeur (PIC: programmable interrupt controler) qui contient le code de décodage des signaux, les asservissements. Le programme est protégé en lecture.
    • 4 voies suffisent pour contrôler le modèle.
    • Le mode de pilotage est celui d'un hélico radiocommandé (donc très difficile) avec en plus des problèmes de pertes d'orientation du à la symétrie de l'appareil.

    Contre Réaction

    Le contrôle s'effectue en faisant varier les vitesses de rotation et donc en utilisant les couples de contre-réactions des hélices:

    définition:
    Lorque qu'un moteur tourne dans le sens horaire, une contre-réaction se crée qui s'oppose au mouvement, elle essaye de faire tourner le bati en sens anti-horaire. L'effet est réversible et valable pour tout système en rotation ou en mouvement.

    Astuces mise en oeuvre

    • Sur le modèle: 2 hélices diamétralement opposés tournent dans le même sens de rotation, Il y a deux hélices tournant en sens horaire (gauche et droite) et 2 en sens anti-horaire (hélices avant et arrière).
    • A l'équilibre, les couples de contre-réaction s'annulent et le modèle reste en stationnaire à plat sous le contrôle du processeur. L'utilisateur, le vent étant vu comme des perturbations pour le système.

    Commandes élementaires

    • Pour avancer, il suffit de ralentir le moteur avant et d'accélerer le moteur arrière, le modèle s'inclinent alors vers l'avant. (stick gauche E)
    • Pour reculer, il suffit d'accélerer le moteur avant et de ralentir le moteur arrière. (stick gauche F)
    • Pour incliner à gauche, on agit de même: moteur droit accélere fortement, le moteur gauche ralentit fortement (stick droit C)
    • Pour incliner à droite, on agit de même: moteur gauche accélere fortement, le moteur droit ralentit fortement (stick droit D)
    • Pour jouer sur l'axe de lacet, il suffit de freiner légerement 2 moteurs simultanément opposés 2 a 2, les couples de contre-réaction seront plus élevés en valeur absolue que les 2 autres moteurs et le modèle tournera sur lui meme a plat. Axe de lacet gauche G, axe de lacet droit H
    • Pour monter (stick droit A) ou descendre (stick droit B), on accélère ou ralentit les 4 moteurs en même temps.

    La difficulté est de jouer sur toute les commandes en même temps et de changer l'orientation dans sa tête pour éviter de donner un mauvais ordre au mauvais moment (comme sur un hélico ;-) )

    Historique

    Cette superbe machine a porté les noms suivants: Roswell Flyer - HMX 4 - Draganflyer et a été concue par Mike Dammar de www.spectrolutions.com elle coûte environ 800$ avec une télécommande 4 voies et accus, ce qui reste dans la moyenne d'un hélicoptère électrique. La NASA s'est porté acquéreur de quelques pièces et Georgia Tech a étudié la possibilité d'envoyer un prototype sur la planète MARS (Project GTMARS 1June 2000). Un modèle plus grand existe: le Draganflyer XP mais son prix est astronomique ($5000) bien que livré avec une télécommande et valise valant à eux seul plus de 2000€, une caméra sans-fil est livré d'origine.

    Draganflyer XP

    • Does the Roswell Flyer use stepper motors are simple DC motors ?
      No it uses cheap mabuchi motor, but each of them is "drinking" 2-3A, multiply by 4 and you understand that with 900mAh, you can only fly 4 min...
    • Do the electronics contain a gyroscope to calculate level flight ?
      not only one but in fact 3!
    • Does it contain a CPU and software to calculate motor speeds ?
      it contains a micro controller with no reference and a close loop (maybe more than one)
    • Do all 4 motors have adjustable speed, and is this done by changing the voltage ?
      Yes with a PWM (pulse wide modulation), though 4 Transistors.
    • Do you know of any websites where people build their own roswell flyer, including description of the electronics ?
      Yes richards friedrich with a basic stamp, but i ve heard nothing since 3 years, a german guy hardwire one with 3 mixer and no gyro (i do not know how it fly), a french guy made a glow one and take months to make it fly. mike Dammar develop the draganflyer during 5 years. Nasa is building one for MARS, but the price of project is in million dollars. We try to build one, controlling motor is not the difficult part since some circuit are also available, reading gyro and determining what to do is more difficult (our site is http://www.ifrance.com/Phobos-flyer/). All links are on my homepage
    • Aren&39;t the batteries very heavy, or are they an expensive kind ?
      The weight comes from the battery. The problem of this heli is power consumption otherwise it is really great to fly. Hope to see the next generation of battery (methanol or something else). That will certainly push sales. Right now Nicad or nimh do notimprovemuch flight time. Li-Ion are still too expensive $80 or more.
    • What makes the kit so expensive, the chips, the motors?
      Nothing except the fact that no enough items are made, hand made is the real name of current production. In fact Mike says that all heli share the same prize (picollo or hornet). He refuse to develop a glow version because there is no market and nobody will pay for it. Moreover he has a recorded video where in less than a frame (1/24s) the heli get upside down because a motor died: no pilot on earth can save the situation.. and the heli in such case.
    • Can propellors be build by cutting them from plastic.
      The key of success is the quantities of air you can move to increase accuracy of controlling...you can discuss with the builder of the roswell flyer, he is open, his name is mike Dammar his site is at www.spectrolutions.com
    • Do you know of webreferences to instructions to make them ?
      no you must build them. Mario who build Micro heli and sell nice engineered upgrades parts send me a message, here is a copy:
      De: <This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.>
      Objet: Re: heli blades
      Date : Donnerstag, 7. Juni 2001 20:35

      Hi Cedric,

      The Roswell blades are very easy to make, we are sorry but we don&39;t carry
      blades for such. If you wan to make yourself a set, form wet sheet 1/16"
      thick balsa over a 3 inch tube, hold it in place with rubber bands. When
      dried you will have a balsa tube that you can sand and cover with epoxy and
      carbon cloth, when finished cut to match Roswell blade pattern, sand the
      leading trailing edges lightly and drill to match holes on the original
      blade.

      Hope this helps.

      You may be interested in our current products which include micro RC
      helicopters, systems and accessories.

      Regards,
      Mario
      www.micro-flight.com/newframe1.htm
    • Would it be an idea to put 2 props above eachother to create a simple indoor heli. This would eliminate the need for leveling the helicopter
      Yes but the mechanics is very complex, it is call a contra rotor, but you need 2 swashplate and the controller is difficult ti implement (mechanical mixer to modify pitch). Moreover no real application except some russian heli.
  •  bonjour!
    j'habite en nouvelle caledonie, dans le pacifique sud, j'ai achete un "cerveau central " de draganflyer sans rien autour (excepte des rotors en piteux etat ),
    et ai envie bien sur de monter le bidule.....(un vieux reve) avant d'aller plus loin, je pilote des avions rc depuis 22 ans maintenant, et des helis depuis 10 ans( concept 46 vr full zeal et vigor cs avec un ys 80
    )...........je ne suis donc pas un total debutant.....

    En fait le draganflyer est vraiment très facile a piloter et très stable en vol. Les seules précautions à prendre:

    • BIEN marquer le rotor avant d'une autre couleur afin d'éviter les pertes d'orientation, car l'appareil qui se pilote comme est hélico est symétrique, et il est donc facile de se tromper au manches.
    • Ne pas voler lorqu'il fait chaud ou en plein soleil direct, car les gyroscopes (tout du moins sur la 1ere version que j'ai, ont tendances à dériver.....)
    • Faire attention aux murs et obstacles: il faut cabrer la bête pour la stopper net :-)

    donc, au niveau des rotors, je pense en mouler en carbon sur la base des originaux que j'ai eu en mauvais etat..........mais ca sera easy a mouler donc pas de pb.....

    Si on a de l'expérience avec le moulage, c'est tout à fait possible. Attention si en vol on sent que la gammelle n'est pas très loin...couper les gazs, cela limitera les dégats. Les pales d'origines, explosent et sous certaines conditions, peuvent se réparer à la cyanocrilate (Colle instantanée).

    par contre c'est au niveau des moteurs que j'aurai besoin de tes lumieres, d'apres ce que j'ai vu, le "gearing" est approximativement 1/5 et des
    poussieres, ca correspond donc par exemple a des systemes de propulsion "eps350" ou "eps300" de chez GWS avec le gearing "C" le pb vient des moteurs en fait !va jeter un oeil chez "aircraft world " :
    http://www.aircraft-world.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=13&cat=motors+%2D+280%2D300 

    les rapports d'engrenages (gearing) sont les suivants:

    • Pinion moteur: 10 dents.
    • Engrenages: 56 dents.

    Quels sont les moteurs employes a l'origine?

    Les moins cher qui existent....des Mabuchi S0, à savoir des speeds 280

    combien l'electronique peut supporter, j'ai peur en fait de griller la platine...a ma place que ferais tu?

    D'après Mike Dammar, le concepteur avec qui j'ai échangé pas mal de mails en 2002, Il est possible d'utiliser la même platine (Draganflyer) pour le draganflyer XP pour peu que l'on ajoute des dissipateur. Les Transistors d'origines IRLZ44N sont donnés à 55V, Rds(on)=0.022ohm, Id=47A donc il y a de la marge.

    ensuite en ce qui concerne la connectique, je n'ai pas le "harness" qui permet le cablage, connais tu une alternative ? un plan de cablage ? des dimensions exactes? du centre du cerveau au centre du rotor : combien de cm ?
    tous les conseils sont les bienvenus....

    Le frame de remplacement carbone, est vraiment bien fait, il m'a couté $80, les dimensions du frame de la version 4: distance de l'axe d'un moteur au centre de la platine électronique: 20cm. Je peut mettre plus de photos de mon roswell en ligne si des détails t'interessent.

    et au fait, comment ca vole?on peut faire quoi avec ce machin? merci par avance !

    Cela vole dans un mouchoir de poche, a haute altitude, il est possible de faire un looping, c'est un engin un peu bruyant, du fait des engrenages...Il faut absolument utiliser des accus Li-ion sinon la durée de vol est décevante: 4 minutes maximum. voire l'artcile sur ce site sur l'utilisation de Li-ion.

    j'attends de tes nouvelles des que possible..c'est tellement rare de trouver des personnes parlant francais ayant cet engin!

    Je vais essayer d'étendre cette page, pour répondre au maximum de question que les futurs acquéreurs/bricoleurs se posent...Si vous avez un problème, utiliser le menu sous "Contact me" pour me joindre

  • Roswell Flyer Manual
    The following instructions are meant to guide you through the use and assembly of the alien technology known as the Roswell Flyer. Your attention to detail and safety precautions is mandatory. As we can not be there to help and guide you, these instructions must bridge that gap from what sits in front of you, a box of parts, and the final product, - radio controlled, silicon based flying device.

    Neatness and accuracy count. You can build the Roswell Flyer in record time and be the first on your block to defy gravity, or, you can take your time, do a good job, and still be the first on the block to defy the elements. The difference is, you will get much better results from the second option.

    Flight time is based on many things, how well the gears mesh together, how well you have sanded the rotor blades to a perfect flying will-, and how accurately you follow all these instructions 3o please pay close attention to these assembly instructions and do a good job. There is a test later, its called first flight.

    We are counting on you!
    WARNING STATEMENT
    The Roswell Flyer is the most exciting R/C product you will own, it is however not a toy. The Roswell Flyer is a very sophisticated flying device that can cause harm to children if not properly attended to. It can cause damage to your personal property if not flown in the appropriate flying area, and of course it can cause you harm if you operate the F;yer in a improper manner.

    The Roswell Flyer is run by electric power, while ;seing environmentally safe, the power source is used up -with each flight, as the power decreases, the Flyer is less responsive. Take care to learn the characteristics of the Flyer so that you can be in control of the situation and not the other way around.

    AFOT does not accept any responsibility for any damages to humans, pets or personal property due to your use or misuse of this product.
    Packing List:
    Qty Description


    1 Black Composite Frame top 1 Black Composite Round Frame Bottom 4 Black Composite Frame arms 4 Black Composite Motor Mount Braces 4 Plywood motor mounts 4 Aluminum rotor shafts 4 Black Main Gears 4 Aluminum main rotor shafts 4 1/8 inch main rotor retaining clips 8 1/8 id 1/4 OD flanged main rotor bearings 8 3mm X 5mm metal motor mount screws 8 4-40 X 1/2 nylon rotor mounting screws 8 4-40 nylon hex nuts 8 1/4 inch threaded nylon rotor spacers 4 Electric motors with pinion gear installed 4 ft Red and Black motor wire 4 Motor noise filter capacitors 2 Clockwise turning main rotors 2 Counter clockwise turning main rotors 1 Main control circuit board 1 Wire antenna 1 Charge Adapter cable 1 8 Cell 600 Mha battery pack 1 square of double sided tape 1 set of Velcro tape 1 Clear plastic packing tray ( has dome and motor covers molded into it)

    Note: Some additional screws and retainers may be included as extras, just in case....

    Additional items required: 4 Channel radio Transmitter and receiver 5 Minute Epoxy wire cutters and strippers needle nose pliers Small soldering pencil and solder 100 grit sandpaper 400 grit sandpaper

    A special note, TAKE YOUR TIME, dont hurry, we know you want to get in the air quickly but take your time, and make sure that you check things twice before gluing once. Accuracy is important, so TAKE YOUR TIME.
    1. For all four main gears, press two flange bearings into the 1/4 inch hole in the center of the gear, one on top, and one on the bottom. The easiest way to do this is to lay a bearing on the table, flange side down, then hold the ,ear over the bearing, line up the hole with the bearing, and press the gear into the bearing using the palm of your hand. Il may be necessary to deburr the inside edge of the hole in the gear with a small knife. One of these will be used in the following steps to check the alignment of the rotor shaft.

    For P-11 four arms, check-fit motor mount brace on end of arrn. If necessary, trim top edge of key on end of arm so that top of brace is flush with top edge of arm. Epoxy in place and let cure. When the Epoxy has cured, double check that the top of the motor mount brace is flush with top edge of arm, if not Band flush.

    3. For all four arms, check fit rotor shaft in hole on arm. Apply Epoxy adhesive to rotor shaft about 1 /4 inch below the shoulder clown to about 1/4 inch from bottom of shaft. Push rotor shaft up into hole in end of arm from the bottom. This prevents Epoxy buildup around the top edge. Check to make sure all rotors are square to the top edge of the arm, and that they are all the same. Use one of the gears from step 1 to check the alignment of the shaft by slidi-ng the gear onto the shaft and making sure that the bottom of the gear is parallel with the top edge of the frame. Be very careful not to get any epoxy on the gear or in the bearings. Let Epoxy cure.

    For ail four arms, check-St plywood motor mounts on rotor shafts. If any are too tight to easily push clown, enlarge hole in plywood with drill. Apply epoxy to top edge of arm and motor mount brace, making sure epoxy touches the edges of the laminate for strength. Push plywood motor mounts down onto rotor shaft and make sure they are square to rotor shaft. Allow epoxy to cure.

    5. Each motor must have a length of Black and Red wire. Make four sets of 12.5 inch lengths of red and black wire. Holding one red and one black wire at the saure time, push the pair through the foam of the frame, between the laminates, and into the first small lightening hole at the top of the arm. Using needle nose pliers, grab the pair of wires and continue to thread them through the foam into the center of each subsequent lightening hole. If you do not wish to put the wire through the frame you can simply tape it to the bottom of the frame as shown in the photo.
    When the outboard hole is reached, pull an extra three inches of wire through.

    6. Important! The top of the frame (smaller disk with little arms) has a top and a bottom. Mounting it incorectly will make it impossible to mount the controller board. I: you hold the top such that the 1/2 inch wide notch is to the right, and towards you, then the rectangular hole will be directly beyond the notch. Check-fit all four arms into the frame top and bottom. When satisfied of fit, epoxy in place. Make sure to apply epoxy to all matting surfaces. The frame should hold itself together if set on a flat surface, however if it tends to pull apart, use some tape to hold in together until the epoxy cures.

    7. Strip 3/16 inch insulation from both ends of thje 4 red and black wires that you created, LATER you will solder these to the motors and circuit board.

    8. You are now going to cut pieces (as shown in the photo to the right) of double sided foam tape to the approximate size as shown. Remove ONE side of the paper from the tape and place them on the top piece of the frame. ( shown to the right) You most likely know that you do not want to touch the tape with your fingers as they will lessen the stickiness of the tape. Take your time.

    9. Locate the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) over the top of the center of the frame such that the battery connector is oriented over the clearance.notch in the frame ring. Insert the 4 servo connectors through the rectangular hole.

    10. Note that the PCB has 8 holes around it&39;s perimeter, 4 labeled black, and 4 labeled red. Feed the red and black wires [rom each arm up through the lightening holes just or, Either side of their respective arms so that the wire colors will match up with the indicated labels on the circuit board..

    11. Insert all 8 wires up through the PCB and solder them on the top side. Trim any excess wire with wire cutters.

    CAUTION, be careful with the soldering iron the frame of the Roswell Flyer is very easy to (lamage with the soldering iron, again Take your lime.

    12. Remove paper covering from double sided tape already installed on top of frame and secure the PCB onto the tape. Make sure to pull the wires down through the holes so that they do not get pinched under the PCB.

    13. For each arm, pull the Black out of the wires, but do not make them tight. Set this assembly aside for now.

    14. For all four main gears, install two 1/2 inch nylon screws through the two opposing small holes in the web of the gear such that the threaded end is on the same side of the gear as the gear hub. Thread a 1/4 inch nylon spacer onto each screw and tighten snugly. Do not over-tighten. Finger tight is good, dont use pliers or other devices that might damage the plastic sleeves or bolts.

    Important! Failure to bevel the edges of the blades will
    result in the aircraft having significantly reduced flying
    tune, and reduced performance. Do not skip these steps,
    even if you think you can Jet away with it.
    15. For all four rotors, using 100 gril sandpaper or file, bevel the top of the leading edge of each blade. The bevel should be about 1/8 inch wide and the leading edge should taper to about I/10 the thickness of the blade.

    16. For all four rotors, smooth out the marks from the 100 grit paper and round of the bevel a bit. Also sand the perimeter of the Made to remove any burrs and slight round the edges of the trailing edge.
    Make sure you prep and Band these edges of the rotor blades, failure to do so WILL affect the performance of the Flyer.

    17. Install all four main gears onto the rotor shafts with the
    nylon screws pointing up, this should also make all the gear
    hubs face up.

    18. Make sure each 0gear spins very easily. If you give the
    gear a spin, it should continue to spin for at least 10 seconds
    thereafter. If one of them does not, check to make sure that
    the bearings are fully seated in the gear hubs, and that no

    19. Install a I/8 inch retaining clip on the top of each rotor shaft. This is most easily done by laying the ring on the end of the shaft with half of the ring hanging a bit down the shaft. Using your linger, press down on the end of the shaft, and work the test of the ring onto the shaft, then usina needle nose pliers, carefully push the retaining ring down the rotor shaft until it seats in the groove.

    Caution, these little clips are an alien life form all unto
    Themselves, they fly off into the carpet, under doors and
    generally just get lost if you dont take your lime. WE
    have included sonie extras, you won&39;t need them ho wever
    if you work slowly and get the hang of f it. The first one
    you do is a bit tricky but once you get the hang of it, the
    rest will be easy to do.

    20. Install all four motors on the bottom side of the plywood motor mounts using two 3 mm X5 mm machine screws. The gears on the motor ends fit up through the elongated center hole in the mount, and engage with the main gear. Make sure that there is a small amount of slop in the gear mesh, about the thickness of a sheet of paper. Tighten the mounting screws being careful not to crush the plywood.
    21. Now let&39;s attach the wires to the motor. On each motor there is a red dot, indicating where the red wire should be soldered, the black wire goes to the other motor lug. Also for each motor, install a noise filter capacitor across the two terminals of each motor.
    Install the green capacitor across the motor leads, it has been omitted here for clarity. It is also a good idea to slip a bit of heat shrink tubing or tape onto the capacitor leads so that if they gent bent they will not short the motor.
    22. Charge the supplied battery with a correct charger, be sure not to over-charge. Charging batteries is almost an artform, we suggest that you review your charger specs and read again the best way to charge Ni-Cad batteries. We have used various charges and this battery pack will charge with a normal charger in about 25 minutes. Let the battery charge until you can hold it in your hand and feel that the battery is slightly warm, or use a charger that measures the peak of the battery. This is, of course, the best way and the most expensive.  
    23. Connect a four channel RC receiver to the PCB usine the four provided connectors. Use the following color codes to make sure the correct plugs are installed.

    Yellow/Red/Black Throttle (Futaba Channel 6)

    Blue wire Elevator (Futaba Channel 2)
    Green wire Aileron (Futaba Channel 1)
    Yellow wire Rudder (Futaba Channel 4)

    23a Attach receiver to underside of PCB usine two layers of
    double sided foam tape. You can follow the procedures in
    the step 23 b if you want to use built in stubby antenna or do
    the following:
    Ri-in antenna wire around frame through Lightening,
    holes, or use a commercially available short antenna that is
    glued to the frame. We recommend that the antenna point
    up and to the rear for orientation reasons


    NOTE: usine built in antenna:
    Warning! The following steps require you to cut the an-
    tenna wire on your receiver. This will most likely void the
    warranty on the receiver, so make sure that you want to do
    this.


    23b Solder the 7 inch long piece of music wire into the hole
    on the PCB near the round black cylinder. At about 1/2
    inch above the PCB, bend the wire over towards the center
    of th_- PCB. Now where the antenna crosses t the cc-ILcr Une
    of thé dise, bend it so as to align with the rear arm. Cut the
    receiver antenna wire long enough to reach the hole marked
    "Ant" on the PCB, from the bottom, with about 1/2 inch of -
    slack. Strip about 1/4 inch of insulation from the end of the
    wire, and push it up through the frame, and into the hole
    marked "Ant" on the PCB and solder in place.



    WARNING!
    Alake sure none of the rotor blades are attached
    for the following steps. Failure to follow this in-
    struction could result in damage to the aircraft or
    injury to you!
    24. The purpose of these steps is to make sure the transmuter is properly set up. Set the transmitter throttle stick to ils mid point and turn on the transmuter. Make sure the power switch on the Circuit board is turned OFF, then connect the battery to the Circuit board

    25. Set the Flyer on a flat, open surface, (the floor is good) making sure that nothing can catch in the gears. If you have long hair, secure it so that it will not fall into the cgears, and do not wear any lose clothing that might gel caught in the gears.

    26. While holding the aircraft down by the center area (PCB) use your thumb to turn on the power switch( small black slide switch). The motors should not corne on, but the LED (little red lioht) should begin ta flash. 1vlove the throttle stick on the transmitter up (increase throttle) the LED should blink faster, If it instead blinks slower, flip the reveres switch for the throttle channel on the transmitter. Note the LED should blink faster with more throttle, and slower with reduced throttle. The motors will NOT turn on at this lime, the Flyer is not yet ARMED.

    27. On your radio transmitter set the throttle to minimum, and set the throttle trim to minimum.

    28. With the aircraft sitting solidly on the flat surface (do not pick it up) carefully push the arming switch (small white rectangular button labeled "caution") on the top of the PCB. Be prepared for the motors to come on or give a little kick.

    For the following steps, push the throttle stick until the motors just start to spin (about 1/3 throttle)

    29. The motors should not be turning, or turning very slowly . Move the rudder stick (rudder /throttle stick) to full left, both the left and the right motors should turn on, and the front and rear motors should slow down or stop turring. If the opposite happens, flip the servo reversing switch on the transmitter. The motors should now respond as described.

    30. Move the aileron /elevator stick full forward, the rear motor should speed up and the front motor should slow down. If the opposite happens, flip the servo reversing switch for the elevator on the transmitter. This should make i; function as described.

    31. Move the aileron/ elevator stick full right. The left motor should turn on or go faster, and the right motor should slow down or stop. If the opposite happens, flip the servo reversing switch for the aileron channel on the transmitter,. This should fix the problem.

    32. Now move the throttle stick forward until the motors just start to turn. Adjust the elevator trim so that the front and rear motors are spinning at about the same speed, or so they corne ,ii at Zhu same time when the throttle stick is pushed forward.
    33. In a similar fashion, adjust the aileron trim so that the left and right motors run at about the same speed, start at the same time when throttle is applied.

    34. Now adjust the rudder trim so that the front/rear and left/right motor pairs run at about the same speed, or come on at about the same time when throttle is applied.

    Note: This may all seem a bit complicated but don&39;t worry,
    remember we said take your tune, well that is stil! a good
    idea. Get to know your f flyer and how it reacts before you
    try your first f ight. The Flyer is easy to fly once you under-
    stand what is going on when you push those transmitter
    sticks. So...yeah , take your time...

    35 Disconnect and remove the battery pack

    36. Position the frame in front of you so that the battery con-
    nector on the PCB is to the rear right of the frame (near you
    and to the right hand side). This puts the front arm furthest
    from you, pointing away. Install the four rotors using two
    4/40 nylon nuts on each screw. Do not over-tighten. The
    front and rear blades should be the ones designed to turn
    counter clockwise as viewed from the top. The left and right
    blades are to be the clockwise rotating when viewed from on
    top

    37. We highly recommend that you mark the front arm or
    rotor with a highly visible mark. Either by putting colored
    tape on the front arm, or a colored dot in the center of the
    front blade, or using a marker, color the front blade. This is
    necessary in that you must always know which way it is
    pointing in order to properly control the flyer.

    Flying

    Never fly this aircraft where damage to property or injury to persons may result if loss of control occurs.

    Never leave the Flyer unattended with a battery connected to it. Always disconnect battery when not flying.

    Always turn the Roswell Flyer off FIRST and then turn of the transmitter. Failure to do so could cause the Flyer to become airborne and out of control resulting in injury or damage

    Startup procedure:

    1. Turn the black sliding switch to the off position

    2. Connect the battery to the PCB

    3. Turn on the transmitter, and make sure that the throttle is fully closed.

    4. Turn the switch on the Flyer to the ON position. You should note that the LED will staff i blinking. Make sure at this stage that when you advance the throttle stick, that the LED blinks faster. This verifies the functionality of tire radio link. Return the throttle to minimum.

    5 . While holding the Flyer down on the ground at the center, push the arming switch on the Flyer. Be prepared for the motors to turn on at any time! If they come on for some reason, and you can not throttle them back, turn off the switch on the PCB and check the radio and receiver.

    6. Back away from the flyer to a safe distance.

    ?. Slowly increase the throttle until the Flyer gets light, and the adjust the trims on the transmitter, so that i: doesn&39;t icimediately turn or try to fly off in some direction:

    The Roswell Flyer flies similar to a helicopter, if you are
    model helicopter pilot, you should be up and flying within a
    few minutes. If you aren&39;t familiar with choppers, dont
    worry the Roswell Flyer is actually much easier than a
    chopper.
    The trickiest part is getting used to the rotation. Start by giving it just enough throttle to get the aircraft light, and then practice keeping the front arm always pointing forward. Make sure you have a good feel for this before you try and get much higher off the ground.
    Forward flight:
    While the Roswell Flyer is designed primarily for hovering, forward flight is more than possible. One thing to note though, as the speed of the Flyer increases, it will require more and more forward stick to keep it going, eventually it will pitch up and stop the forward motion. With this in mind, be aware that as you move to forward flight the flight performance will change and require more transmitter input to maintain the forward motion.

    Wind:
    The Roswell Flyer can fly outdoors in a limited amount of wind, however, do to the very lfight disk loading of the Flyer, it will become difficult to maintain station in a moderate breeze.

    Ceiling:
    Y ou can fly the Roswell Flyer as high as you like so long as you can still see it well enough to control the flyer. However care should be taken not to stay up high too long as you may not have enough battery power to make a successful landing. Also a rapid vertical descent should be avoided for similar reasons.

    Discharged battery:
    The Roswell Flyer is designed to Nover at about 1/3 to 1/2 throttle with the supplied battery pack in the fully charged state. As the battery approaches the end of its charge, you will notice that more throttle input is required to hold it in a hover. This is how you tell is the battery is running low, and it is at this point that you should be begin planning your landing or at least getting near the spot where you intend to land.

    Flight Time:
    The Roswell Flyer should be able to Nover for about 3 minutes on a fully charged battery pack, alter that time, it will descend to a point where it will only fly about a foot off the ground. After about ) 0 to 20 seconds, you -ill notice that it takes more than 3/4 throttle to maintain a low Nover. At about this point the Flyer will start to become somewhat unstable and it is at this point that it is best to land and recharge the battery. This period of instability at the end of the battery charge is normal and is caused be the lower battery voltage in the discharged state.
    Optional performance enhancement ideas:


    The Fine Art of Tweaking:
    While thé rotor components of thé Roswell Flyer are care-
    fully machined to perform well without much need for ad-
    justment, you may be able to make your Flyer even smoother
    by tracking and balancing thé blades.


    The rotor blades on thé Roswell Flyer are very light and
    spin at a relatively low RPM so balance isn&39;t as critical as it
    would be on an airplane propeller. None thé less, a well bal-
    anced machine (helicopter or Flyer) is a joy to fly.


    To balance thé blades on thé Roswell Flyer, loosen thé
    screws that hold one of thé motors and pull it back so that
    thé gears no longer mesh and thé rotor turns freely. Now
    tilt thé Flyer into a 90 degree bank and notice what thé
    blade does. If one blade or thé rotors always seems to swing
    down, then that is thé "heavy" blade. You can do one of two
    things at this point.
    1. Sand a small amount of material from thé edge heavy
    blade until it balances.
    2. Add a small piece of tape to thé light blade until it bal-
    ances ( wrap tape half on top and half on thé bottom of thé
    blade so it won&39;t peel off

    Now return thé motor to its&39; origine&39; _ position

    That is it, just do the same procedure for all four blades.

    Tracking refers to making thé tips of thé rotor blades fly at
    thé same level. Making thé tip heights equal implies that
    each rotor blade is producing thé exact same amount of lift
    and thus help reduce shaking of thé rotor shaft. On most
    model helicopters, this is done by adjusting a ball link, but
    since thé Roswell Flyer is not bound by thé limits of human
    design, a différent method is used.

    ï o start with, you need to check thé existing tracking situa-
    don, i1 will Ikciy be just fine. &39;fo do this hover thé Flyer
    high enough and at a safe distance ,so that you can CARE-
    FULLY look across thé plane of thé rotor blades. Look at
    thé edge of each tip path and see if you see one looks like
    one rotor tip or two. If you only see one rotor tip zinging by,
    then that blade is tracked adequately. Check all for blades
    this way. For those where you see what looks like two rotor
    tips, tracking is in order.


    To track thé blades you must first determine which one is
    flying high. Do this by either marking thé tip of one blade
    with a bright marker or put on a piece of bright colored tape
    that you can remove after thé process. Now bring the Flyer Pa 15
    into a hover again and look at thé marked rotor.

    The marked blade will either be high or low, just remember which land, and disconnect the battery.
    If the marked blade was low then you may want to increase its&39; pitch, if the marked blade was high, then you should reduce its&39; pitch.

    The pitch can be quickly adjusted by heating the root of the rotor right at the rim of the gear, with a heat gun. Heat only until the material just starts to soften. Then twist the blade in the desired direction (don&39;t twist very much just a degree or so) then hold the blade still for about a minute while it cools.

    Check the results by hovering again, and adjust as required to get good tracking.
    High speed uncontrolled ground contact
    (or a crash to the rest of us)

    The frame:
    The frame of the Roswell flyer is made of a wood based laminate, and mends very well with epoxy. If an arm is broken in a hard landing, you may glue it back together with epoxy. For extra reinforcement, you should apply a small piece of tight weight fiberglass cloth to each side, and epoxy i; in place. Check for crack in the frame alter any hard landing, and do not fly the aircraft if any of the components have been weakened by crash damage.


    The Rotor blades:
    Do NOT attempt to repair a broken or damaged rotor blade. Always replace with a new blade. Use of a repaired blade will almost certainly.result-in an in-flight blade failure and result in further damage to the aircraft.

    Beginners Read This.

    If you are new to R/C choppers and planes, in the words of Douglas Adams, DONT PANIC. It is out experience that new pilots tend to over control the transmitter sticks, or just the opposite, they do nothing at all. Some place between too much and too little is that happy place where the Flyer Oies and you have fun. The best place to find the "Flying grove" is to practice in short spurts, Hop the flyer off the ground a few roches, but do so with a purpose in mind. Like, keep the nose point in a certain direction or make the flyer moue right and then set down. Above all else take your time, think about what you are doing, before you do it.

    In the GROUND EFFECT the flyer gets pushed around by the wind that it produces. This also creates that cushion of air which the flyer can float on with less power. However flying a few roches off the ground gets to be real boring. You have to get the flyer to an eye level hover. This is where all the fun begins. Until you are comfortable with hovering just above the around, in the ground effect, dont give the flyer too much power.

    No doubt you will give the Flyer a bit too much juice and it will rise to a height that will be new to you, this is where the phrase, DONT PANIC cornes into play. The Roswell Flyer, DOES fly, so relax, enjoy and mort of all do something, but not TOO much. A little bit goes a long way.

    One final comment, what you put in, by way of control you will most likely have to take out, if you roll to the right, make sure you roll a bit back to the left or the Flyer will just keep going in the last direction that you gave it. Have fun, after all that is what its all about.

    All parts of the Roswell i Flyer ire available for sale as replacements. Visit out web-site at www.afot.com to order these parts. Or see your local dealer for parts if all else faits, call us direct at 1-800-32$-0184. In a pinch improvise, with all parts, except the motors, the circuit board and the gears. The test of the Flyer is there for you to experiment with. Let your imagination run wild, just be sale and if you fend out other tips and tricks or corne up with a cool design, contact us and share the information. We will be glad to post articles on things you have done to the Flyer, on out web-site.
  • nullCosts

    Can be bought at www.draganfly.com for 80€ + shipping costs.

    Overall view

    The original frame is weak in many places and was designed more for indoor flying. A lot of people work on the Roswell Flyer and they all designed their own frame using carbon pipes. I decided to buy the carbon upgrade frame. As usual, all models: Roswell Flyer (sold out), HMX4 (copy of previous), Dragnaflyer are sharing the same design and are fully compatible. They were all created by the clever Mike Dammar from www.spectrolutions.com

    Assembling

    Content of the upgrade Kit.

    The manual given explain everything and is completed. All screws, heat rubber for isolation, and a small hex key is given. Nice job. The overall frame is light and the wires are hidden in each carbon tube. A spare carbon tube is also in the kit.


    Aerodynamic canopy, very light, the circuit board is
    maintian by the four pylons.

    Maybe the motor mount has a little too much flexion. Let
    see if it survive in a small crash. Note that the pinion is now
    after the motor mount and no more inside the imaginary
    inner circle. It will also be in contact with the ground in case
    of crash.

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    final throughs

    The kit is not overprice and the frame seems to be reliable and light. A must for all old roswell flyer!

    TIPS

    • If you think you can not save the machine (crash) stop immediately the power, it will many times save your blades
  • nullMike Dammar www.spectrolutions.com ou son distributeur www.draganfly.com (Canada) ou Mike Johnson http://www1.minn.net/~mjohnson/ (USA)

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