|Build a plate with aluminium or plastic you can bend
You must create a U shape and use the screws (red point on schema) to fix it on
+ Less ugly, moreover the R30 V2 is really nice (ok, it's not
a princess but this is a personal point of view)
+ Real windows for watching the battery monitor,
+ Access to the needle, can be finally adjust realtime,
+ Lot lighter ( vs 237 grammes for the original canopy),
+ The exhaust can not melt the canopy ;-)
+ Better cooling,
+ Cheaper 30 size canopy of the market ($19).
+ Body retaining is easier, faster : 2 grommets instead of 4 "easy to loose" screws
+ Survive to many crash.
Take a look at the caliber 30 manual, page 17, remove the 2 screw
number 948 and replace them with philips screw or similar. We need to
remove them because the are not suited for the raptor 30 canopy.
You shall move the "hook" to the nearest
position you can (to the edge of the canopy)
You can cut the edgebut it is nott needed (not done on picture)
Cut here in order to let the swashplatte moving freely. Cut the canopy to let some space between the muffler and the body if required.
- The 2 fixing canopy screws (page 17, part 949) are iritating and if you don't forget to overtighten them, then you can loose one in flight. The best solutions is definitively to use the thunder tiger system part: PV0061
You can replace a lot of part on the caliber 30, raptor 30 parts are half prize compare to Kyosho genuine parts!
On my caliber 1, using double side tape. use zip tie to
secure the tank...
On my caliber 2....
Help to balanced the heli if needed. Won't work with
a raptor 30 canopy.
by the Joeker
|Blades||quick uk CFK blades|
|all others||NES 4231|
|gyro||CSM 540 + JR 2700 G|
|Radio||Robbe/Futaba R149DP + Futaba FF8 + 2 * 1700mAh|
|A lot of upgrade......|
|Bought on ebay, january 2002|
R50-R30 Supplemental manual by Fritz The Cat http://members.telocity.com/fritzthecat/raptor50.html
Raptor technique by Michael Prewitt (now own 2 R50) http://www.raptortechnique.com
My first helicopter :
This is the last view of my thunder tiger raptor, I regret it each time I see another heli, but I do the right thing : after fighting 2 months with the woof (without poof) and without flying, changing for 250 Euro of part (metal wash out, metal swash plate, flat damper, blade, servo,blade grip etc). I sell it... The person cured the woof and poof because he glue the rotor hub on the main mast.
In the very beginning of 2001, I was the first person who recommend the raptor, but with the current problem, I can not ! keep your hand away from this bird (or learn to fly with it and sell it if he start to wah wah or woof and poof). The risk is to kill yourself, crash the heli, or injured someone else in during loosing the control. Note that I would buy immediately 2 raptor when ace (the distributor) find the solution, but as today 21.12.2001, there is at least 20 solutions on internet and none cured the problem completly. Worse is the fact than some are really different each other. SORRY BUT BYE BYE RAPTOR
Raptor, I regret you each time I clean the motor from my robbe moskito xxl (really a pain to view the motor)
old message i've posted on the newsgroup:
So now many french flyer like me have the same problem, the woof and poof (tracking on only one side of the rotor, more than five centimeter, appear not always, only under low load around 0°) can even let the main blade hit the tail boom.
I do the following on my raptor :
- I change the wash out for a metal one (ace)
- I change the swash plate for a metal one (not from ace, quick uk)
- I change the main blade for fiber one (quick uk)
-> woof and poof still remained
I decide to add some weight in the canopy : install dual bat + another pack of battery (it may change eigen frequency of the whole system)
-> woof and poof still remained
Another flyer add a shim to remove the slope as described on many site
-> woof and poof still remained but isn't anymore so enormous....not an 100% solution
So i decide to change the main rotor grip + flat damper (not so expensive in fact)
-> woof and poof still remained
-> less woof and poof but still present....
One friend cure it: glue the rotor head with CA to the main mast !!!!!!
Equiped with :
|Motor:||Brushless Plettenberg 300/24/A3 (old version with optical sensor
less interferences problem) (270â¬)
|Controller:||Schulze Future 35 HO (35/40A, 16-30 battery) (220â¬)|
|Gyro:||CSM 540 Heading lock|
|RX:||Robbe/Futaba R149DP 41MHz|
|Pitch/Roll/Nick-Servo:||Robbe/Futaba S 3001|
|Tail-Servo:||Super Servo Futaba s9250 numeric|
|Battery:||2 x 12 x 2000 mAh NiCd Sanyo RC 2000
|Blades:||quick uk CFK blades or wood stock blades|
|Weight empty:||2360gr with canopy (180gr) and blades (180gr)|
|Weight in flight:||3.780gr. with canopy and 24 x 2000er battery (1400gr)|
|Flight time:||9:45 slow, 6:00 3D, 11:45 with 2400 battery.|
|Others:||TT metal swashplate, CFK-Frame, head button, quick uk rear mount servo|
Links where You can buy this machine...
size="4">Original view of the CNC frame :
The frame is a little bit fragile, maybe because of the number of hole in it...the weight gained is not so huge.
Maybe the GFK version is better (and the price too). Definitively i would recommand a standard frame and
an actro. The avaibility of part is a lot better, price is inexpensive (moreover the actro deliver 1200 Watts and the plettenberg only! 700 Watts). For having an example how to build it, just have
a look at this page :
Flight log :
3 flight since now, the sound is really nice but the battery say very rapidly that they are down, 15 seconds
and after you must land ! otherwise you will pratice an autorotation. I will confirm this this week end. (I hope
the weather will be good enough).
Displace the antenna in front of the heli as recommended on www.mikado.de (they have a page on how to reduce radio interferences).
Displace gyro, rx from 7 cm with a carbon plate (far away from motor)
add ferrites everywhere, reroute some cables.
reduce lengths of connections to battery.
I have some problem with the tail belt, it become loose even in flight (I loose control 2 times). I decide to stop the translation of the boom with a metallic Fixation. The machine is very smooth and noise is very low (quiet).
Add a pack of 1700mAh (RX), so I can make 8 flight without recharging...The metallic fixation on the tail tube fixed it's translation. No Problem since.
20 flights with the machine without any problem. I must admit that kind of machine is not for a newbie....you must set up a timer and carefully record your flight
time (I do not get over 8min30 s for security) and land before loosing control or doing an autorotation (I have no pratice ;-)). On the others hand, i go to the fields with only battery and a fast charger...
Motor cut off 4 meters above ground ! no damage....the controller was too hot and the journey too (29Â°C). I dissassemble the controller and add thermal coupound and a bigger metal plate. see photos
- Tighten carefully the screw that hold the motor in position, if they become loose, then the motor can move too much, this modify the clearance between the motor and the main spur gear : a good way to destruct it....
- Set a timer and when power decrease, land immediately ! moreover don't let your pack discharged, land !
- Flight time can only be determine : rotor speed and style of flying affect the total flight time : 5'30s for 3D to 10' 45s !
- Do not buy RC2400, because the weight capacity ratio is not as good as RC2000 or RC1900
- Hight current charging mean high power but less flight time, and low current charging lead to less power but longer flight time.
Why an electric helicopter ? (from Jason, www.ezonemag.com taken on newsgroup)"Youll get a LOT of opinions here....rather than do that, Id like to show the
I own, flight log and Crash log
click on the picture to jump to the section
|1st Caliber 30||Raptor 60||2nd Caliber 30|
|Roswell Flyer||Ms Hornet 2|
- 60min. with 5000mAh
- 11.30min with 1500mAh
|Reflex XTR||Realflight G2|
|My Simulator NÂ°1
free addons at
|My Simulator NÂ°2
with addons 1,2,3 and 4
me flying in realflight g2 (need addon3 for having raptor 30 & 60 look)
I bought RealflightÂ®Â© deluxe refursbished for 100â¬ in 2001 with the plastic controller box then the update G2 for another 100â¬.....expensive at first sight but it save me so much money (at least 100 times more).
- Nice looking, maybe the best graphics on the market today.(see raptor 30 with addon3)
- Possibility to simulate flight failures,
- Network gaming (if you have a permanent internet access)
- A lot of new color schemes can be found freeely on internet (see below in links), but it is only a skins for existing heli or airplanes.
- You can build airport but you have a limited number of items.
- You can record your flights and demo, distribute them,
- There is a virtual instructor to learn new tricks,
- Games in games : events like autorotation, precision landing.
- Helicopter simulation is no realistic at all ! but I slowly discover why it is so bad (you do not notice it till you do not display the frame rate): go to section : Increase realism
- No graphical editor for airplanes and heli : KnifeEdge (the editor) want to sell add ons at very high prices.
- Overall bad realism....why ? if you want to recognize a good simulator, mesure data on your model and put it into the simulator, if the feeling is different then something is wrong in the physical model.
- Crazy protecting system! you must always have the realflight cd inserted! and sometimes realflight is asking you all others CD : RFdeluxe, then Cd update the addon2 then addon3 etc : it is slow, disturbing and can be easily outpass with daemon tools (note that version 2.00.570 seem not to accept any virtual cd, hee knife edge that is not in the software relase note !). Why do they not use a dongle instead ?
- The wind affects are not properly modeled, the wind in the sim is linear from the ground up in the real word the height causes a much greater affect. additionally the turbulence is (for want of a better word) "swirling" and has both vertical as well as horizontal components. The settling with power is totally absent from the sim, as a result it is not very useful.
- Flight Model is TOO EASY, and still too SLOW. A way too much inertia.
1- open the physic engine, so we can tune equations
or use better equations if cpu power is enough (what do you do with 2800MHz????)
2- better simulation of heli inertia...
3- better simulation of wind or at least with more tuning options
3- Vortex ring problem
4- heli editor or at least release some converter or open the internal specs of file, Some of us can write an editor.
5- a draganflyer!!!!
6- sell a heli version/ a airplane version / a full version
7- more heli lessons (instructor)
overall inmprove the physic engine, in reality things get worse really faster than in simulator.
When will Knife Edge open their physic engine (equations), so we can tune or rewrite them ??
When will Knife Edge release their format specs so people can build planes editor ?
I would like to say : NEVER since they release quite expensive addons (which bring nothing)
- There is no other simulator which is so nice, even if the physic is so bad.
- Change characteristics in order to match the natural instability of heli:
- edit the aircraft and reduce weight of paddle : raptor 30 has 35gr, reduce it to 10gr not less otherwise rolls won't work anymore.
- Of course do not fly without wind.
- improve response of heli:
- edit the aircraft and reduce speed of servos : default is 0.22 sec/60Â°, reduce it to 0.02sec/60Â°
- reduce exponential on all command.
- Improve physics :
- desactivate the grass in the airport : it is consuming alone nearly 30 fps on my PC1
- As a rule : desactivate every graphics till you did not reach at least 60 fps (or more) in all flight configuration (when you are in front of trees, houses etc, if the framerate drop, the heli is out of control).
The heli is difficult to maintain ? to fly ? and you crash in less than 3 second ? welcome back to some reality !!!!!!
As a result on my pc nearly every visual enhancement are switch off, but that is the cost for having a little more reality. (just to say I bought CSM 10.1 on ebay.....)
Which PC for Realflight ?
My PC PC of my Brother PC1
VIA KT133, duron 800 Mhz, Hercules GeForce 2 GTS 64Mo, 512 Mo SDRAM 133MHz, IBM 60 Go 7200 tr/min UDMA66, all test at 1280x1024 32bits
(I want to test RealflightÂ®Â© G2 on a better configuration before updating mine, I do not think that a geforce 4 will help, maybe a better cpu....definitively a free update from knife edge to improve physics)
I've tested Realflight on my PC (see above) and on the following :
Athlon Xp 1600, Leadtek geforce TD 2500 (geforce4 4400 overclocking @ 4600), 512 Mo DDR 266Mhz, IBM 80 Go 7200 tr/min UDMA100, all test at 1280x1024 32bits
NVIDIA Nforce2, duron 800 Mhz, Hercules GeForce 2 GTS 64Mo, 512 Mo DDR 2700, IBM60Go + IBM80Go + MAXTOR120Go 7200 tr/min UDMA133, all test at 1280x1024 32bits
I've tested Realflight on my PC (see above) and on the following :
Athlon Xp 2800, Leadtek geforce TD 2500 (geforce4 4400 overclocking @ 4600), 1024 Mo DDR 266Mhz, IBM 80 Go 7200 tr/min UDMA100, all test at 1280x1024 32bits
What I have noted on PC2:
- If you desactivate nearly everything, the FPS (frame per second) counter seem to reach limit value which is near 90 fps.
- Grass is consuming alone > 20 fps !
- People and in fact increasing number of object to the max let you go between 40 and 45 fps (was below 20 fps on PC1), which should be enough, but the problem is the frontier between 80 fps and 45 fps, some glitches are encountered and when flying you feel the changes.
My Conclusion :
If you want to make a demo, activate every items otherwise deactivate as much items as possible ! in fact nobody is flying beside trees or walls in real life... if you do so maybe your flying field is not well choosen. It make no sense to go for a new PC, It seems to me that bad performances, or non linear increase in fps is due to bad programming or overflow in current PC architecture. Remember that a geforce 2 is 4 times less expensive than a geforce 4
- Michael Prewitt and his excellent website www.raptortechnique.com (a must in english) is providing heli script and color scheme for the raptor 30. note that addon3 contain the most realistic view of a raptor 30 and 60 look (see the pic on the top of this page). Of course they fly bad... :-(
- Search with google for the "G2 exchange page", a lot of airport, color scheme, planes and heli for free.
First you must buy the rc2p from Andreas Pieper (through www.ebay.de ), it allow you to connect any TX to the gameport, In Realflight, choose "controller calibration", then personal and edit. Assign fonctions as following :
Channel Name Paddle Direction Invert 1 Aileron 1 right-left No 2 Profondeur 1 up-down No 3 Gazs 2 right-left YES 4 Rudder 2 up-down YES switch 3 Iddle Up inter1 YES
Other keys can be emulated with the keyboard....
Some remarqs :
- The controller is entirely in the plug (CMS component) and the quality is professional.
- Only regret, it can only controls 4 channels + 1 switch.
- GREAT to use your real TX, feeling is a lot better ! (weight of TX, tension of sticks, position of fingers etc...)
- It is a lot cheaper than the interface provided by RealflightÂ®Â© (>230â¬ in France).
Raptor 60 tweaking : credit to Twobeers (RunRyder)
- Reset the all the gyro settings to original values to start with.
- Go to the Jet Ranger and write down all the tail figures and change the tail figures of the Raptor 60 so that they are the same as the Jet Rangers.
- If you want a faster piro rate double or triple the gyro's piro rate under the gyro tab of the edit aircraft model.
- Set the gyro to always on under the edit radio page.
- Lower the paddle weights by 5grams.
- Make the servo's a little faster.
Raptor 30 tweaking : credit to Mad Scientist (RunRyder)
Download te following file and save it in your "planes" directory
- Want to pratice autorotation ? instead of using the switch (throttle cut) use a very small tank (30cc) and fly....till you run out of fuel.
- Be careful to learn on both sides ! like me you may prefer to turn always from the same side : that's bad ! and when you go back to field you are petrified....
- With the latest cd burner (philips, acer some plextor), it is possible to outpass the safedisk 2 protection of G2 (burner must support EFM (hardware) or be recognized by clone cd in order to use the AWS fonction (Amplify weak sector)). I prefer to made an image of the cd, then use daemon tool and daemon ui. NO NEED TO INSERT THE CD anymore, RealflightÂ®Â© g2 start in 5 seconds, ahhhh marvelous...
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